Thinking about planting a tree or some shrubbery this spring? This is an excellent time to get them in the ground and off to a great start. Here are some things you may find helpful in your new plantings and perhaps guide you along the way. Trees and shrubs are valuable in our environment in providing extra oxygen and removing additional carbon dioxide and in cleansing the air we all use. They also can provide food sources and habitat for insects and wildlife, provide wind screens, and shade for your yard, along with a pleasing aesthetic, which may be your main goal.
In the selection process, think about where the new plant will be placed. Is it in full sun, deep shade, in a wet area or dry spot? Think about the mature size of the plant, foliage it produces, bloom color or fragrance, seed and fruiting habits, growth rates, hardiness, water needs and weediness. Some plants produce seeds that germinate quickly and prolifically or have root systems that invade planting beds and send up new plants. Some have many sprouts from roots and are difficult to control These are two examples of what is call weediness. Consider these things when planning and purchasing your new plant.
In selecting the site for your plant, be sure to have adequate space for the mature size of the new plant, considering the future height and width. Look overhead to be sure there are no electric or phone wires above. Estimate the amount of sunlight that is available. Is it morning sun, afternoon, or all day sun? Consider the soil characteristics: moisture, drainage, pH, and hardiness in our hardiness zone (ours is zone 8a). A soil test would be nice to have and is available, sometimes free of charge, through the local N. C. Cooperative Extension Service. A soil test will tell you if the site is too acidic and how much lime you may need to add, and the status of other nutrients that may need to be added to keep the new plant growing and healthy.
When you are ready to shop for your plants, you may have a choice of either bare rooted, potted, or balled-and-burlapped (B&B), referring to how the plant and its roots are packaged. All are satisfactory, but the bare rooted ones require extra careful handling and early watering to be sure they have adequate moisture early in the transplanting stage. In selecting the plant to purchase, of course be sure the plant is healthy looking, vigorous and uniformly shaped. A full complement of leaves and well-shaped and distributed branches is more important than plant size and trunk diameter (called caliper in the trade).
The root system is perhaps the most important part of a new plant. Check the drainage holes in the bottom of the container (in potted plants). If small roots are growing through the holes, this is acceptable. If large roots are growing out or some large roots have been pruned away, opt for another plant. If the plant looks like it may be root bound, try to slide the plant out of the container. If some of the larger roots are circling the container, keep looking for another plant. Small, white roots are an indication of a healthy plant.
Now you are ready to put the plant in the ground. Late fall or early spring is the best time to plant. The planting hole should be only as deep as the root ball or container, but about three times as wide. This is a good time to add lime to the planting hole, if the soil test indicates, but usually no fertilizer is added at planting. If you must add nutrients, be sure to use an organic type and not a chemical one. Examples of organics are cotton seed meal or well-seasoned manure mixes. It may be best not to add a chemical fertilizer at this time, such as 8-8-8. It is best not to root prune at all, unless you find a root completely circling the plant.
This root should be pruned away. Position the plant in the hole with the best side in the direction you wish. Plant a little above grade and backfill to about half way. Water the plant and hole well at this time, and then complete the filling of the hole. Water again and mulch well with about 3 inches of organic matter. Keep the mulch at least 6 inches away from the trunk or stem of the plant. Keep branch prunings to a minimum, but the few broken or damaged small limbs or leaves may be removed. Authorities advise against staking, but check for a leaning plant in about 2 weeks and stake if you wish. You can remove the stake after a year.
Plants will require 3 to 5 gallons of water twice a week for the season (extending well into fall) if there is no rainfall. After about 2 months, a light application of fertilizer starting about 2 feet from the trunk and scattered around the circumference of the plant is acceptable. Check the soil test report to see what formula is recommended. The following spring would be good for additional fertilization. An organic type is best.
Good luck and keep watering in dry weather. You should be successful!
Pete Liles is an NCSU Extension Master Gardeners volunteer.